Gumadkai Vadiyalu

Vadiyalu are a summer tradition in Andhra homes. When the heat of April and May arrives, families make batches of sun-dried papads from rice, moong dal, raw banana or pumpkin — spread thin, dried on cotton cloths on rooftops, stored in airtight containers and eaten through the rest of the year. Gumadkai (pumpkin) vadiyalu are among the most common.

These are made from raw pumpkin grated and mixed with rice flour, Guntur red chilli, cumin, hing and salt. Shaped into small rounds and sun-dried over several days in summer heat. Properly dried vadiyalu are firm and brittle.

To prepare: deep-fry in hot oil for about thirty seconds — they puff up almost immediately and turn very crisp. Or roast on a hot griddle with a few drops of oil. They double in size when fried. Eat immediately as a side with rice, sambar or rasam. They also work as a snack on their own, plain or with a small bowl of yogurt for dipping.

Vadiyalu are light in the way fried things made from vegetables are — not greasy, not heavy. They're the kind of side that makes a simple dal rice meal feel more complete without adding much work.