Ariselu

If there's one sweet that represents Andhra festivals, it's ariselu. Sankranti is incomplete without it. The smell of ariselu being made — rice batter frying in oil, jaggery caramelising — is one of those smells that people from Andhra associate with the most uncomplicated happiness.

Ariselu is made from raw rice soaked overnight, ground into a smooth paste, mixed with melted jaggery and a little ghee until the batter is thick and slightly sweet. Sesame seeds are mixed in. The batter is shaped into small rounds and deep-fried in oil until they're cooked through and golden on the outside. Pressed slightly to release excess oil and left to cool.

The outside is firm and slightly crisp. The inside is soft and dense with the flavour of jaggery and the faint nuttiness of sesame. Not too sweet — jaggery has a more complex sweetness than refined sugar and doesn't feel sharp or cloying.

These are best eaten at room temperature. They keep for about a week in an airtight container without refrigeration.